After a couple of pleasant days in Yeppoon we headed off again on our quest to go south. This time we didn't have far to go as we were off to Kingfisher Bay Resort for a few days which is only about 15NM. We had a lovely sail to Kingfisher and after a bit of a wander around the resort in the arvo headed back ashore in the evening for Sundowners at the Sand Bar on the pier and a meal. It was really nice to see a resort up here doing well and there seemed to be plenty of coming and going's every day.
On the morning of the 18th we thought it was a good idea to have a bit of an explore so did a couple of the walks that leave from the Resort. The first was up to the look out at North White Cliffs lookout and we then headed off to the McKenzie Pier and then back to the resort past the remains of the WW2 Commando Training centre which was based on Fraser Island.
After all the morning activity we were back to the boat for a swim off the back and a bit of R&R on the aft deck.
On the 19th we are going back through the Great Sandy Straits. With a bit of luck and good management we seemed to time the tides perfectly and had current with us all the way and also had plenty of depth to get through the shallows. We decided to spend the night at Elbow Point which is just around the corner from the Wide Bay Bar as we will be having an early start in the morning to get through the bar at the best time.
Up at 4.00am on the 20th which means we will get through the Wide Bar Bar just at the end of the Flood. The swells are pretty low at the moment so our exit was relatively gentle which was rather nice as it can get very nasty going across this bar. We had light north easterly winds so had a lovely motor sail down to Mooloolaba - one of our favorite spots! Initially we were only going to spend a night here and then head off to Tangalooma (North Stradbroke Island) for a couple of nights but with some odd weather forecast plus I really like Mooloolaba we decided to spend a couple of nights here so we had a good walk around and also managed to fit in a body surf - always a favorite!
Up again early on the 21st and this time we are heading to Manly (just south of Brisbane). This will be our last sail on Sally until we come back up in January to bring her back home to Melbourne so feeling a bit sad - especially as this means this part of our adventure is actually coming to an end.
The trip to Manly was quite pleasant although the wind did build to 25knts during the day which meant parking procedures were going to be a bit exciting but luckily one of the locals here helped with our lines which was much appreciated as always.
The next couple of days are going to be spent giving Sally a bit of TLC and pack her up before we fly home for a couple of months. We will be back up at the end of January when we finish off the trip and sail her back home to Melbourne.
So far to date we have done around 6200NM (or around 12,400kms) and looking forward to our next big adventure in 2013....
Sorry but we didn't think to take any photos for this entry.
We will be catching up with Leapy Lynda on Friday for a bit of a celebration - she has just finished her first week of work.
This will be the last Blog until Jan or Feb 2012 so thanks for following and hope you will keep tabs on us again when we set off again next year
Wednesday, November 23, 2011
Monday, November 14, 2011
Southward Bound - Brampton Island to Yeppoon (9th - 15th November)
Things didn't quite work out as planned on the morning of the 9th November. If the weather behaved itself we were hoping to have a longish day sail through to Curlew or Digby Islands however, the weather didn't behave at all and we were greeted with moderate South Easterlies as we left the bay at Brampton Island so we moved onto Plan B which was to go to Keswick / St Bees Islands (just off Mackay) for the night in hope of better winds tomorrow. As we approached St Bees we were met by the Marine Parks IRB that informed us that anchoring was not allowed at St Bees as there was a goat cull in progress so after a few mutterings we diligently moved around to the anchorage on Keswick which unfortunately was pretty roly and not that nice at all. Luckily a bit later in the morning the Parks people got back to us and encouraged us back to the original anchorage for the night which was very polite of them and made conditions aboard a whole lot more comfortable. By evening we were accompanied by a number of other yachts all waiting for weather windows to move south.
The forecast for the 10th was looking great with light ENE winds so the alarm was set and we picked up the anchor at 4.45 and were on our way but this time the plan was to do an overnighter through to Yeppoon or Great Keppel Island (locally known as GKI). The forecast was to plan this time so the start of the 165NM trip began. The day was all pretty uneventful and we enjoyed very light and favourable breezes so were making good time especially considering the tides that you find in this part of the world. Just on dusk we went past the Percy Islands - one of Mark's ambitions is to stop and spend a few days at Middle Percy however, yet again this was not to be as we sailed past still en route for GKI. The moon was absolutely awesome and excellent for a night sail - it was so bright we had shadows on the boat.
Remembrance Day and we turned up at GKI mid morning and dropped the pick at Second Beach - before you could blink we were in the water for a refreshing and much needed swim. GKI was one of our favourite stops on the way north so we decide to spend a couple of nights here waiting for our next weather window.
When we were here last we did a number of the walks on the island but never made it to the Light House so figured this would be a good thing to do on the 12th. As it gets warm pretty quickly in these parts we decided that an early start would be best. The walk was pretty much all up and all down but was great to have a look around the island again. The view from the Light House was pretty good especially the one looking back over Wreck Beach.
As the anchorage as Second Beach was proving to be a bit roly we decided to move around to Fisherman's Beach which is the resort side of the island. We kind of forgot that it was a Sunday but soon remembered as we were met by an army of people on this side of the island who had decided to come for a beach day out from Yeppoon. Despite the chaos we also had a lovely day at the anchorage kind of just hanging out but did go ashore for a bit of a wander around the shops and ended up going to Island Pizza for a spot of dinner! One thing we did notice as we were sunny ourselves on the back deck of Mustang Sally was the poor condition of our very well travelled Little Red Dolphin. According to our log the Little Red Dolphin has now completed around 6000NM (or approximately 12,000KMs) and he still has quite a ways yet before we get him back to his home at Safety Beach however, I think we will be approaching the hierarchy at Safety Beach Sailing Club to see if we may be eligible for a new one before we start our next pacific adventure in 2013. Don't worry we will be finding a good home for our well travelled friend.
The weather was again looking good so up bright and early on the 14th and this time we are doing an overnight trip through to Urangan (Hervey Bay) which is about 170NM. The trip started with good winds and in the right direction so we were able to sail for the best part of the day and evening but we ended up motor sailing for the second part of the trip as the winds lightened.
I got some really exciting news today as Leapy Lynda and I have re-joined the Carlton Football Club which means, we will hopefully, get to a fair whack of at least their home games in 2012. This isn't going to be anywhere near as easy as it was in 2010 when we were both living in Elwood as it looks like Leapy has moved to Brisbane for a while (she received the good news that she has a job at the University of Queensland starting tomorrow - the 16th) and we now live in Safety Beach however, I am sure with our determination and passion for the mighty blues we will find a way.
Correct to plan we arrived at the Hervey Bay Boat Club Marina at around 9.00am and are looking forward to a quiet ale or two tonight on the balcony of the Boat Club Clubhouse
A "Tough" Sail to GKI |
The Percy's at Dusk |
GKI Sign Post |
Wreck Beach |
Guess Who at the GKI Light |
As the anchorage as Second Beach was proving to be a bit roly we decided to move around to Fisherman's Beach which is the resort side of the island. We kind of forgot that it was a Sunday but soon remembered as we were met by an army of people on this side of the island who had decided to come for a beach day out from Yeppoon. Despite the chaos we also had a lovely day at the anchorage kind of just hanging out but did go ashore for a bit of a wander around the shops and ended up going to Island Pizza for a spot of dinner! One thing we did notice as we were sunny ourselves on the back deck of Mustang Sally was the poor condition of our very well travelled Little Red Dolphin. According to our log the Little Red Dolphin has now completed around 6000NM (or approximately 12,000KMs) and he still has quite a ways yet before we get him back to his home at Safety Beach however, I think we will be approaching the hierarchy at Safety Beach Sailing Club to see if we may be eligible for a new one before we start our next pacific adventure in 2013. Don't worry we will be finding a good home for our well travelled friend.
Our Very Well travelled Little Red Dolphin |
I got some really exciting news today as Leapy Lynda and I have re-joined the Carlton Football Club which means, we will hopefully, get to a fair whack of at least their home games in 2012. This isn't going to be anywhere near as easy as it was in 2010 when we were both living in Elwood as it looks like Leapy has moved to Brisbane for a while (she received the good news that she has a job at the University of Queensland starting tomorrow - the 16th) and we now live in Safety Beach however, I am sure with our determination and passion for the mighty blues we will find a way.
Correct to plan we arrived at the Hervey Bay Boat Club Marina at around 9.00am and are looking forward to a quiet ale or two tonight on the balcony of the Boat Club Clubhouse
Monday, November 7, 2011
Southward Bound - Townsville to Brampton Island (3rd to 8th November)
After a leisurely week in Townsville (one of our favorite spots) the weather is shaping up for a Thursday departure (3rd November). Despite the Qantas debacle Leapy got herself on a flight arriving on Wednesday arvo so all is well.
We are all up bright and early on Thursday morning and leave the Townsville marina about 7.00am before the tide gets too low plus we are keen to get on our way south. If all goes well the plan is to do an overnight sail and end up at Bait Reef, (~135NM) Friday morning for a bit of a snorkel on the outer reef.
The sail went very well with light east to north easterlies blowing for most of the trip and we were able to pick up a mooring at Bait Reef around 9.30am in the morning. It is quite a bizarre sight seeing boats parked in, what would appear to be, the middle of the ocean.
We spent a lovely few hours at Bait Reef and did plenty of fish feeding of the back of the boat which included the usual bat fish but also a huge Maori Wrasse and some Dolphin Fish. We also spent quite bit of time in the water and did heaps of snorkelling on the coral in amazingly clear water. No matter where else you go in the world for a snorkel the Great Barrier Reef is definitely amongst the best diving spots in the world. As mentioned the water clarity was excellent and the coral and fishies we saw were excellent. We even got to swim with a few turtles which is a first for me.
After an awesome morning at Bait Reef we are off to the Whitsunday's proper for the evening and are hoping to pull up a mooring at Blue Pearl Bay but by the time we arrived late in the afternoon they were all taken so we sail on for a bit longer and stay the night at Bali Hi which is so named as part of the film was shot here. Up early on Saturday morning to Blue Pearl again in search for an empty mooring and this time we were in luck. The snorkelling in Blue Pearl is still as good as last time and again we managed to find a tamish turtle to have a swim with. Juddy and Andrew also decided that it would be worth taking to the water for a bit of a swim with Nemo!
As we are on a bit of a time frame to get the boat back to Brisbane we can't loiter too long so we head off to Cid Harbour for the night and head into the Hamilton Island Marina for a day of R&R on Sunday, Hamilton Island never fails to disappoint and is a hive of activity and there are always lots of fun things to do. We spent a few hours lazing around the pool and then decided it was time to have the obligatory holiday cocktail before having a yummy meal and the Manta Ray Cafe. After the busy day we were all pretty stuffed and struggling to keep awake however, Leapy and I were pretty keen to stay up until 11.00pm to watch Casey Stoner in the last of the MotoGP races for the season and we are very glad that we made the effort as it was an action packed race and to make it all the better Stoner pulled out an amazing victory - YAY.
Unfortunately Leapy had to cut her holiday a bit short. For those that don't know she took a redundancy package about 1 year ago and has been travelling around to Costa Rica, Bali and Turkey for the best part of the year. We were hoping that she would be able to do the trip all the way to Brissie with us but it looks like she might be in with a job at the University of Queensland so she figured it was best to get things sorted on the job front. We were naturally very sad to see Leapy go as she it is always good fun to have her on board and Juddy just isn' the same without his good mate Andrew Walker. Leapy arranged for a flight out of Hammo early arvo on Monday so we figured it was also a good time for us to start heading south again. Unfortunately the winds are not all that favourable at the moment with light East to South Easterlies blowing (our course is pretty much SE) however, we did manage to make it down to Shaw Island for Monday evening and have just pulled into Brampton Island for the night.
The forecast is looking a bit more promising with very light East to North Easterlies planned for Wednesday and Thursday and so hopefully the BOM has it all correct so that we can make some good mileage south over the next few days.
We are all up bright and early on Thursday morning and leave the Townsville marina about 7.00am before the tide gets too low plus we are keen to get on our way south. If all goes well the plan is to do an overnight sail and end up at Bait Reef, (~135NM) Friday morning for a bit of a snorkel on the outer reef.
Feeding the Maori Wrasse at Bait Reef |
We spent a lovely few hours at Bait Reef and did plenty of fish feeding of the back of the boat which included the usual bat fish but also a huge Maori Wrasse and some Dolphin Fish. We also spent quite bit of time in the water and did heaps of snorkelling on the coral in amazingly clear water. No matter where else you go in the world for a snorkel the Great Barrier Reef is definitely amongst the best diving spots in the world. As mentioned the water clarity was excellent and the coral and fishies we saw were excellent. We even got to swim with a few turtles which is a first for me.
After an awesome morning at Bait Reef we are off to the Whitsunday's proper for the evening and are hoping to pull up a mooring at Blue Pearl Bay but by the time we arrived late in the afternoon they were all taken so we sail on for a bit longer and stay the night at Bali Hi which is so named as part of the film was shot here. Up early on Saturday morning to Blue Pearl again in search for an empty mooring and this time we were in luck. The snorkelling in Blue Pearl is still as good as last time and again we managed to find a tamish turtle to have a swim with. Juddy and Andrew also decided that it would be worth taking to the water for a bit of a swim with Nemo!
Juddy and Andrew getting ready for a snorkel |
Sunset from Bali Hi Island |
A bit of R&R for the boys |
Bye Bye to Leapy Lynda |
Unfortunately Leapy had to cut her holiday a bit short. For those that don't know she took a redundancy package about 1 year ago and has been travelling around to Costa Rica, Bali and Turkey for the best part of the year. We were hoping that she would be able to do the trip all the way to Brissie with us but it looks like she might be in with a job at the University of Queensland so she figured it was best to get things sorted on the job front. We were naturally very sad to see Leapy go as she it is always good fun to have her on board and Juddy just isn' the same without his good mate Andrew Walker. Leapy arranged for a flight out of Hammo early arvo on Monday so we figured it was also a good time for us to start heading south again. Unfortunately the winds are not all that favourable at the moment with light East to South Easterlies blowing (our course is pretty much SE) however, we did manage to make it down to Shaw Island for Monday evening and have just pulled into Brampton Island for the night.
The forecast is looking a bit more promising with very light East to North Easterlies planned for Wednesday and Thursday and so hopefully the BOM has it all correct so that we can make some good mileage south over the next few days.
Saturday, October 29, 2011
Louisiades Rally - Part 4 (11th October – 29th October)
11 October
Anchorage at Sabira |
Welcome for the Water Tank Opening |
Chief George and the Dancers |
Official Opening - Guy Chester |
Quite a spread! |
The festivities were not part of the rally but were instigated by Chief George and his village as they were so appreciative of the assistance offered by the Dim Dims. We were greeted by the villages with lots of dancing and the girls wore some amazing headdresses and outfits. There was also some sing sing before the official opening which was then followed by some games with the kids and refreshments and an awesome sunset!
Sunset at Sabira |
12 October
Banaba Boat or Sailau?? |
Trading at Hessessai Bay |
Hessessai Bay was again another lovely anchorage with some more good snorkelling to be had. We were the only dim dim yacht in the anchorage for the night and the word quickly got around the locals that we had some fabric on board for trade, which is much sought after in these parts, so we certainly did get plenty of locals dropping by for a visit – we were lucky enough to trade for some beautiful shells and paw paws so all parties were pretty happy.
Local Sailau - Hessessai Bay |
Nimowa Ambulance |
Sunset at Nimowa |
Junior Sailau Skipper - In Training |
A scene from Apocolypse Now! |
Our Banana Boat Skipper |
Jungle Di! |
Waterfall on the Fieori River |
Local Inland Village |
Back to the banana boats and most of us had a bit of a dip in the waterfall before a spot of lunch and we were back on our way to Nimowa. Our banana boat seemed to have a bit of a fuel issue on the way back but after a bit of attention from Alex (the resident diesel mechanic on Muscat) we were back on our way. We all had an excellent day and the trip on the banana boats was heaps of fun.
Welcome for the Nimowa School |
The Nimowa Clinic |
Sister Sarah |
The local soccer team from the Elementary School |
After a really yummy lunch (including pizza, donuts and banana chips) we had to take on the kids from the local primary school in a game of soccer. Our captain, Janis, the backpacker, (we figured a German should at least have some idea of how to play the game) tried to install some order but found it all a bit challenging to provide some structure to our team although most of the time was spent defending goals and not a lot of time in attack. From the outset we figured there was no way that we were going to beat these little dynamos but we did put up a good show and at least scored a goal which is better than most. In the end we were clearly beaten 2 goals to 1. We certainly provided plenty of entertainment and laughs for the local village that were gathering for the main event which was the semi-final game between Nimowa and Sudest (I think). The locals are all pretty good at soccer and put on a great game but unfortunately the team from Nimowa were just beaten.
The Main Event - Nimowa Vs Sudest |
16/10
The official last day of the rally and effectively the day when we turn the corner and start heading back towards Melbourne (quite a daunting thought)! The last day of the rally is at Wanim (or Grass Island to the locals for obvious reasons). The anchorage on the western side of Wanim is a lovely spot and has a great outlook and again some really good snorkelling and we found the water here to be really clear so the visibility was excellent. Tonight we had the official closing BBQ for the rally which was a great opportunity for us to catch up with everyone before we all start to head off our own way.
Anchorage at Wanim |
Most of the fleet decided to spend the day in Wanim although a few of the boats did head off to other anchorages. Based on the weather it doesn’t look like any of the remaining boats (Reliance and Attitude are already on their way home) will be leaving till late in the week. Sanctuary were kind enough to have us all on board this evening for some pre-dinner nibbles and to rid them of their cheese problem as we are not able to bring cheese back into Australia.
18/10
Most of the fleet are wandering off although we decided to spend another day at Wanim. The feeling is a bit flat today as everyone is heading off and it really feels now like the rally is over and we are all now looking to the trip home. After all the preparations I am definitely feeling a bit out of sorts and quite sad that the big adventure is quickly coming to an end.
Walk along the ridge at Wanim |
We went for a bit of a walk in the afternoon along the ridge towards the village at the north of the island and was good to get the chance to give the legs a bit of a work out. During the days the clouds had been building and in the evening we had an amazing light show and plenty of wind and rain but were happy as clams aboard watching it all go by. The only other boat with us still at Wanim in Love of Gaia who, due to some anchor issues, will be at Wanim until it is time to head back to Australia
19 October
The Very Famous Chief Gulo |
Team Moonraker invited us and Leyla aboard for a BBQ this evening and was really nice to catch up with them all again.
Wyuna |
Thursday, October 27, 2011
Louisiades Rally – Part 3 (5th October – 10th October)
I have been a bit negligent and not provided a whole bunch of information about the Louisiades so before I go further with our trip here is a bit of background info.
THE ISLANDS
The Louisiades is a chain of islands lying 100 nautical miles east of 'mainland' PNG with the Solomon Islands lying to the east. The Louisiades comprise sand cays, lagoon reefs, limestone outcrops (uplifted coral reefs) and continental islands. With abundant coral reefs there is snorkelling, diving and fishing galore. There are skull caves. hills to climb, coral cays to explore, mangrove lined creeks, coconut shaded trees to sit under.
THE PEOPLE
The people of Louisiades are Melanesian and are very warm and friendly. They are exceptionally welcoming to yachts and will paddle out to say a welcoming hello and of course to trade their local produce and crafts for other items not readily available in the Louisiades.
The locals look similar to the folk of the rest of PNG (and for that matter the Solomons, Vanuatu, New Caledonia and to some extent Fiji!). There are three main languages spoken by people in different areas in the Louisiades, Misima-Paneati, Nimoa and Sudest. Whilst Pidgin is often spoken throughout PNG in the Louisiades the majority of people speak their local language and English.
Life in the Louisiades is simple and unburdened by the ownership of many material possessions. Many place are completely self sufficient and have little need for money. The economy of many islands is not based on cash and the only use for such would be a long trip on a sailing canoe to a trade store
Many folk live in villages, which are home to any number of families from a few to a few hundred. The villages have no formal or traditional chiefly system, but every island has a Councilor, who forms part of the local government. Most villages have a church where the locals practice Christianity.
The sailing canoe (Sailau) is the main form of transport for locals to get around the Louisiades. These are hand crafted from trees growing on Paneati.
****************************************************************************
5 & 6 October
Since we had such a nice stay in Bagaman last time we decided that it would be a good place to spend a few more nights before moving on to Misima. After some discussions with the other rally yachts anchored in Bagaman we headed off on a walk firstly up to hill to the north east of the anchorage which s the place of worship for the local villages. It was a pretty windy morning and even more so once we got to the top of the hill but the views up there made it all worthwhile. We then made our way across to the other side of the island which has another village (sorry cannot remember the name of this one) and we went for a long stroll along the beach before heading back to the yacht for an afternoon of some serious R&R. Team Leyla joined us for sundowners at five on the aft deck and after some high power bartering we ended up with an excellent trade where we ended up with a very nice bottle of red in exchange for a 6 pack of Gordon's G&T
View of anchorage at Bagaman from Worship Hill |
Sailau Ride |
After the sail we were all so full of beans we decided to go for one last snorkel at Bagaman and headed over to the east side of the bay and found some lovely coral and plenty of fish which kept us entertained for a good hour or more. Amazing how much time one can spend with one’s head under the water looking at fish and coral especially when the water is a balmy 28oC
7 October
Misima Market |
Today is when we head for the big smoke of Misima. As it is a fair hike (~30NM) all the yachts had the same idea and got up early for the trip across. As it was a good sailing breeze we all made good time and ended up having to slow down to give Guy on Sanctuary enough time to arrange things before the fleet arrived. Misima is where we finally get to clear customs and quarantine. As we can’t get off the boat until clearing we get to entertain ourselves on-board for a while until we get clearance at around 6pm but finally we get to put pull down the Quarantine Flag and officially put up the PNG flag (despite the fact that we have had both up for the duration of the rally to date).
8 October
Elementary School Welcome |
The Dim Dims on display (local for white folk) |
Local Dancers |
Miss Misima Contest |
The Pem Pewa - Local Style |
The Pem Pewa - Dim Dim Style |
The local kids were keen to help us get our load of Pem Pewa gifts back to the boat so we ended up with a what must have looked like a scene from the Pied Piper as we all wandered back down the main street to the dinghy wharf. After much sorting and negotiations we eventually made it back to the boat for a clean up and also a sorting of the Pem Pewa gifts - you wont imagine how much fresh fruit and how many baskets we ended up with and were lucky enough to be able to give some of these goodies to some locals as we were never going to get through it all. After a bit of a break we are on the move again and this time off to the Guest House for a yummy dinner and auction. As with many of the activities on the program they are aimed at raising funds for the Nimowa clinic and other worthwhile causes (there are plenty of them!). We ended up with the highest bid on many items with some of the stand outs being a really lovely Bagi, Bundy Bear Wind Sock, and a bottle of marmalade which ended up costing 60Kina (~$30AUD) .
MV Reliance Crew |
The Local Drop |
After the fun of Misima we were still keen to move on and took the opportunity to depart from Misima once we had finished our morning tasks. We decided to head for Robinson's anchorage for the night (~30NM) which proved to be a great spot for the night before we head over to Sabira in the morning. We followed Little One over to the anchorage and we ended up being the only 2 yachts here for the night. Mark and Lisa from 'Little One' were kind enough to donate some of their HUMUNGOUS Mackerel that they had caught on the trip over. Mark was even kind enough to fillet them for us. We decided the best thing to do was wrap the fillets in foil with some herbs and chuck them on the BBQ - this was all pretty YUMMY - especially as fish hasn't exactly been a staple food in our diet so far On the fishing front Mustang Sally hasn't been doing all that flash and seem to have developed a reputation for losing lures and being fish lovers not killers!. So far the score is fish = 4 and Mustang Sally Dim Dims = 0.
10 October
Up early again as we have about 20NM to do today on our way to Sabira and are keen to get there as we have heard that it is a really beautiful spot surrounded with small limestone islets. We arrived just before lunch and were not disappointed with the beauty of the place, crystal clear water and sandy bottom – YAY – no bommies to worry about here. Chief George was pretty keen to come out on his dug out to greet the yachts as they arrive and in most cases hoped on board to lead you through to the best anchoring spot
Village at Sabira Island |
After lots of swimming and snorkelling in the arvo we head to the shore to participate in the five o’clock drinkies with the five or so other yachts that have decided to come to Sabira.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)